By now you have found
a good place to surf and have gotten used to paddling around on the
board without falling off.
surfers do not surf in the whitewater. They like to turn and do
maneuvers on the open face. You'll get out there too, once you can
stand up in the whitewater reliably. This helps you practice
standing up on a fast-moving surfboard without having to worry about
where the wave is breaking, other surfers, pearling, going over the
falls, or any other hazards. It's how I learned!
- Grab your board, and head out into
the water until it's up to your chest or so. Hopefully you'll
still be where the whitewater is rolling in and not outside the
- Let some whitewater roll by,
getting a feel for the rhythm of the waves.
- Wait for what looks like a pretty
solid chunk of whitewater, and turn around, facing the
shoreline. Get on your board and start to paddle in.
- When the whitewater reaches you,
it will surge you forward. Stay in control of the board!
- As you feel yourself surge
forward, stop paddling and grab the rails of the surfboard with
- Do a push-up and quickly 'pop'
your feet underneath you. Do not kneel; go straight to your
feet. Both feet need to be under you at the same time, one in
front of the other, with the toes pointing perpendicular to the
centerline of the board.
- At about this point you'll need to
know whether you want to be a regular-foot or a goofyfoot.
- Immediately afterwards, let go of
the rails and stand in a stable crouch.
- It's right about at this point
that you will begin to fall. Try not to land on anyone and
anything, particularly your board. Fall shallow so you don't hit
- Hey, you're surfing! Smile, and go
do it again.